OBEDIENCE TRAINING

Below you will find answers to commonly asked questions about dog behaviour. These training suggestions are meant to be a guideline for typical problems and not all dogs will respond to this type of training.

Topic: Barking!
Question:
Why does my dog bark?
Answer:
Dogs bark for many reasons. Here's a few of them:
they hear something, to get something or they're warning that they're going to do something In almost all instances, though, the barking gets your attention, which is ultimately what your dog wants.

 

Question:
How do I stop barking?
Answer:
First we need to determine why your dog barks to make it stop. If you have a beagle, basset, terrier or hound, eliminating barking is almost impossible. There is hope, however. For these breeds, you need to get control over the barking. We will discuss this a bit later. If your dog is primarily an outside dog, and your dog is barking at night, it is a good guess that he/she is barking to be let into the house (or the garage). Do not leave your dog outside at night if this occurs. If you do, several things will happen - your neighbours will complain, the dog will continue to bark, you'll get no sleep and the dog will be headed for the shelter or death row. It is easier to bring the dog in and confine it rather than having any of those things occur. Once the dog is inside, we can now control the barking.
Question:
OK, so how do I get control over the barking?
Answer:
There are three methods to control barking. NOTE: do not attempt these techniques if you are in a hurry or have important guests arriving.
The first is for dogs that bark when they are on the ground, but stop when picked up (usually small dogs):

Ø Put a leash on your dog and keep the dog by your side.
Ø Do not pick the dog up when it starts to bark.
Ø Ignore the dog. If this is difficult, go to the second method for bark control.

Ø Do not touch the dog, pet the dog or look at the dog.
Ø Continue doing the activity you were planning (i.e. greet your guests, keep walking, etc).
Ø Once the dog is quiet for 10 seconds, reward the dog with praise, a toy, or food.

Stopping this type of barking will depend on the age of your dog and the length of time you have rewarded the barking by picking the dog up. From now on, NEVER pick your dog up when it is barking and always keep it on a leash when you think that barking might occur. A good trainer is always prepared!

Method #2: Barking for barking sake!

Ø When your dog begins to bark, give the command to Speak! In this manner: Scruffy, speak! Good boy! Speak! Good boy! Speak!
Ø Continue to do this over a week's time every time your dog barks.
The result will be that, when you say quiet, your dog will look for that treat and be quiet. What you have done is created an on/off switch for barking that is useful in any situation.

Method #3: Scare tactics!

This method is a conceptual one and has no definable steps. It is known that, when a dog is scared and that fearful behaviour is reinforced, the action that caused the frightful experience will usually be extinguished. In the case of barking, you will need to startle your dog and reward the cessation of barking. One technique is to take a soda can, fill it with about 20 pennies, and tape the top shut. When your dog starts to bark (at the window or in a crate), toss the can in the dog's direction, making sure your dog does not see you toss it. When the can lands and startles your dog, call the dog to you and/or praise the dog for stopping. DO NOT let your dog play with the can!

These methods are suggestions for controlling barking and do not work on all dogs. Also, consistency and patience are vital to controlling barking and you should not expect results overnight (keep in mind how long your dog has been doing this behaviour and estimate that it will take at least half that time to fix it).

Question:
How about using those bark collars?
Answer:
Bark collars can be effective when combined with other training methods (like the ones stated above). Many owners, however, use the bark collar as a crutch to stop the barking behaviour. If you do that, you will never be able to stop using a bark collar. Consult an educated trainer for more advice on using a bark collar correctly. It is also suggested that, if plan on using a bark collar, that you purchase a citronella vs. a shock collar.

Topic: Digging!
Question:
Why does my dog dig?
Answer:
Dogs usually dig for three reasons: they're hot, they're after something or they are just plain bored. Labradors, Goldens and heavy-coated dogs will dig in shaded areas that tend to be cool (also in areas that collect water). Terriers and ground dogs will dig after mice, rats, moles, bugs, etc. in any area of the yard. Almost any other dog digs to alleviate boredom (please see Chewing and proper methods of to divert this problem). Digging is a self-rewarding exercise (that means your dog will continue the behaviour even if you disapprove). Some dogs are so obsessed with digging that, even though they have been punished, they are willing to accept the punishment for the satisfaction that is gained (digging to a dog can be like cigarette smoking to a human).

Question:
How do I stop the digging?

Answer:

Is your dog digging because of the heat? Try a baby pool filled with water and placed in the shade. (If your dog hates water, wet sand can be substituted.)
Is your dog after bugs or vermin? Treat the yard with insecticides designed to eliminate the problem (make sure you don't poison your dog in the process! Read the label directions).
If your dog is just bored, consider providing interesting chew toys or a sandbox to dig in. Make sure the sandbox is deep enough for your dog and bury toys for your dog to find. The best thing about sand is that the holes your dog digs will refill, thereby providing hours of digging entertainment and one really pooped pooch!

Question:
My dog ALWAYS digs in the flowerbeds!
Answer:
New-turned dirt (flowerbeds, potted plants, etc) attracts all dogs because of the ease of digging. If you have a dog that is hot (see above), try to provide adequate shade or a baby pool. Also consider fencing the area or treating the ground with a pet deterrent (there are several on the market - follow the directions). Also, don't leave your dog unattended in the yard for long periods of time with nothing to do - boredom will definitely be a factor!
Question:
My dog digs under the fence and is always getting out!
Answer:
Digging to es cape confinement is a very difficult habit to break, especially since the act of digging is not the real reason for the behaviour. Is your pet spayed or neutered? Your pet may be roaming in the neighbourhood because of a drive to breed so consider neutering or spaying your pet. Is your pet chasing cars, people, horses, etc.? Is he/she playing with the dog next door? Try to determine the exact cause of the behaviour and consult a trainer for expert advice.

Topic: Chewing!
Question:
Why does my dog chew?
Answer:
Dogs usually chew for two reasons: they're teething or they are bored. Teething usually begins at four or six months and could last two or three months, depending on the breed and size of your full-grown puppy. Most chewing, however is the latter, and puppies do not outgrow boredom destruction.
Question:
But I buy lots of toys?
Answer:
The number of toys that you purchase is important, but not as important as the TYPE of toys you buy. Dogs like toys that taste good or reward them for chewing. Good toys for encouraging proper chewing are: hard rubber toys and plastic or rubber bones or plastic and rubber balls.

Note: you should always monitor your dog when giving him/her a new chew toy. If a toy is broken into big chunks that can be swallowed, it is best that you do NOT give that toy to your dog. Toys can cause choking hazards with aggressive chewers. Use your best judgement and follow the package directions.
Question:
If I buy toys for my dog to chew, how does he know the difference between his toys and my furniture? Why do I want him to chew at all?
Answer:
As you probably already know, your dog will not stop chewing if you give him/her no toys to chew on. The furniture or landscaping can testify to that. If you follow the steps to proper chewing, you will be able to rely on your dog to target only his/her toys. Chewing on toys can also discourage other bad behaviours such as digging or barking.

Teaching proper chewing:

Ø Obtain good chew toys. If your dog is not interested in them but is a chewer, use a bit of peanut butter or bacon grease to stimulate interest.
Ø Praise your dog for chewing on his/her toys.

Ø Keep all toys in a central location that is easily accessible at all times. A large milk crate or cookie tin can be used to contain the toys.
Ø Watch your dog. (For a destructive dog, keep him/her tied to you on an indestructible leash.) When he/she looks around for something to chew, say do you want a toy? Let's get a toy!
Ø Walk them to the toy basket and dig around inside to generate interest while saying, get a toy! Do you want a toy?
Ø When your dog retrieves a toy from the basket, praise your dog. If he/she picks up the toy but then drops it, continue generating interest in the toys. Keep in mind that if you have something you think is good, your dog will want it as well.
Ø Continue to do this until you see your dog going to the basket without any prompting. Be prepared and praise your dog!
Ø If you must leave your dog alone and he/she is not reliably going to the basket, do not leave your dog loose in the house. If crating or confinement is not an option, make sure that you treat all areas with a pet deterrent (like Bitter Apple™) to discourage destructive chewing while you are gone.

Do not assume that, since you bought all these toys your dog will chew on them. You must teach your dog what you want. Spent the time following this method and you can eliminate chewing problems quickly and easily.

Question:
My dog is alone in the yard all day. How do I catch him chewing?
Answer:
It would be best for you to not leave your dog unattended in the yard during the day. However, for some people this is not an option. Make sure you treat the areas that get chewed with a deterrent or barricade them from being accessible to your dog. In extreme cases you could use fencing designed to keep dogs in or out of an area. Always leave your dog plenty of toys to chew on (one or two will NOT be enough). The more toys your dog has that he/she likes, the less likely he/she will be to destroy your things.

Topic: Housebreaking!
Question:
Is my dog housebroken?
Answer:
The best way to tell if your dog is housebroken is to ask yourself: does my dog ask to go outside? If your dog doesn't, then he/she is not housebroken.
Question:
How do I teach my dog to ask to go outside?
Answer:
Our suggestion is that you first acquire a bell (i.e. a cow bell, Christmas bells, etc) to hang from the door leading outside. This makes housebreaking portable. In the steps below, we will be teaching them that ringing the bell leads to the door being opened and that they have access to outside.

Follow these steps to success with housebreaking:
Ø Leash your dog and keep him/her with you - you must be able to catch the dog in the act.
Ø Watch your dog - most dogs need to go out after they eat, drink, play or sleep.
Ø When you think its time, ask your dog "do you want to go outside?"
Ø Walk your dog to the door.
Ø Have him/her sit.
Ø Thump the bell with your finger - keep in mind your dog will have to ring the bell, so have the bell adjusted to your dog's nose height or paw height.
Ø The dog will look at the bell. Praise the dog.
Ø Open the door and walk your dog to the "potty spot". Bear in mind, the first time your dog goes outside on a leash it may take a while.
Ø Give your dog a command to go - "Hurry up" or "Go potty". This will save you time later on.
Ø Praise your dog for going outside.

Things to remember:
Ø If you cannot leash your dog, at least confine him/her when you are busy. Crates are very popular and work well if not abused. Crates are a "dog playpen" that helps the dog to control their bladder and you to control your temper. Purchase a crate that the dog can stand up in, turn around and lay down, but not run a marathon in.

Ø Do not expect dogs that are being paper trained to make the distinction between last week's paper and today's.

Ø Be consistent for at least two weeks and your dog will be asking to go out in no time! (If these techniques do not work and you are following them correctly, your dog may have a more serious problem. Consult a reputable behaviourist in your area

Question:
Is my dog too old to be housebroken?
Answer:
Age is not the issue with housebreaking - your level of commitment is the issue. Keep in mind that, as in any behaviour training, the dog learned the behaviour in a certain period of time and re-educating your dog will take longer if the dog is older. This does NOT mean your dog is untrainable.